Bermeo

Bermeo, a fishing town on the coast of Biscay in Spain's Basque Country, offers a captivating blend of maritime heritage and dramatic natural beauty. Found within the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO-declared site, its colorful old port and medieval streets invite exploration. The town's identity is deeply intertwined with the sea, evident in its active harbor and the proud display of fishing traditions.

Beyond its appealing charm, Bermeo serves as a gateway to some of the Basque coast's most iconic landmarks, including the striking islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Whether you are drawn to its historical narratives, the rhythm of a working fishing port, or the rugged coastal landscapes, Bermeo provides an authentic glimpse into Basque life.

The town is built on a steep slope, rising from the sea towards Mount Sollube, offering numerous viewpoints with expansive vistas of the coastline and surrounding islands. From its lively pintxo bars to its tranquil coves, Bermeo promises a memorable experience for those seeking both cultural immersion and natural splendor.

## From Ancient Port to Provincial Capital Bermeo's origins are ancient, with historical mentions dating back to 1051, referencing the monastery of San Juan of Gaztelugatxe. Some legends even suggest its port was founded by a descendant of Noah or by Romans in the 1st century B.C. The town officially gained its charter in 1236, granted by Don López Díaz II de Haro, Lord of Biscay.

During the Middle Ages, particularly from the 14th and 15th centuries, Bermeo developed into a significant port, specializing in fishing and trading goods like Castilian wool and salted fish with major European ports. Its economic growth was bolstered by special privileges and fueros (local laws). From 1476 until 1602, Bermeo held the esteemed title of 'Cabeza de Vizcaya' (capital of Biscay), a testament to its institutional and economic prominence. The town's coat of arms, depicting a ship pursuing a whale, reflects its long-standing maritime heritage, including a significant whaling industry in the 14th and 15th centuries.

However, the founding of Bilbao in 1300 gradually led to Bermeo's decline in importance, with its population shrinking significantly by the end of the 14th century. Bermeo also endured numerous fires throughout its history, with notable incidents in 1297, 1347, 1360, 1422, and 1504, which destroyed many historical documents. Despite these setbacks, the 17th century saw renewed prosperity due to its fishing business, leading to extended docks and a burgeoning fish canning industry. In the 20th century, fishing activity became industrialized, and even today, Bermeo remains one of the most important fishing ports in the Basque Country.

The town also played a role in the Spanish Civil War, notably during the Battle of Cape Machichaco in 1937, an epic naval battle, and the Battle of Sollube. Today, Bermeo continues to embrace its maritime legacy, being home to the Tuna World Capital, an association promoting sustainable tuna fishing.

Begin your exploration at Bermeo's Old Port, a picture-perfect setting with colorful fishermen's houses. Here, you can enjoy pintxos and Txakoli (Basque white wine) at the waterfront terraces, particularly lively on weekends. Do not overlook the 16th-century 'Tres Cantos' fountain, the oldest in Biscay, which historically provided fresh water to the town and ships.

Ascend from the harbor to Bermeo's Old Town, a charming labyrinth of narrow streets and medieval buildings. The Ercilla Tower, a 15th-century fortress, now houses the Fishermen's Museum, offering insights into the town's deep connection to the sea. Look for the San Juan Portal, the last remaining gate of Bermeo's medieval city walls.

For expansive views, make your way to La Tala, an old whale-watching point that now serves as a viewpoint over the municipality, Izaro Island, and the Urdaibai estuary. Another excellent spot is the lookout on the road to Mundaka or the terrace behind Restaurante Cannon. A short drive from Bermeo lies San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, an iconic islet with a hermitage connected to the mainland by a winding stone bridge and 241 steps.

If time permits, visit Lamera Park, a social hub with cafes and the historic Casino de Bermeo building, which is now a cultural center. For a swim, Aritzatxu Beach offers a small, secluded cove with clear waters.

Bermeo offers a pleasant experience year-round, but the best time to visit for warm-weather activities and outdoor exploration is from late June to early September. During these summer months, temperatures are comfortable, ranging from 20°C to 23°C (68°F to 73°F), with the least amount of rainfall and the clearest skies.

Spring and autumn also provide mild weather and fewer crowds, ideal for exploring historical sites and coastal walks. While winters are generally mild, Bermeo does experience considerable rainfall, especially in November, so be prepared with a light raincoat.

Bermeo is easily accessible by public transport from Bilbao, with regular bus (Bizkaibus A3515) and Euskotren train services taking approximately an hour. If you are driving, parking is available near the port or on the outskirts of the old town, though it can be challenging during peak times. The town's old quarter is quite walkable, but be prepared for hilly terrain and stone streets, so comfortable shoes are a necessity.

The Bermeo Tourist Office, currently located at Hurtado de Mendoza Kardenala, 14, provides information in Basque, Spanish, English, and French, and can assist with guided tours. While in Bermeo, embrace the local custom of txikiteo, going bar to bar for small glasses of wine and pintxos. Locals are known for being friendly and welcoming, so do not hesitate to strike up a conversation.