Chaves

Chaves, a city in northern Portugal's Trás-os-Montes region, sits just 10 kilometers from the Spanish border. This historic border town, with origins dating back to the Paleolithic period, is a captivating blend of Roman heritage, medieval fortifications, and a flourishing spa culture. Its name, meaning "keys" in Portuguese, reflects its long-standing strategic importance as a gateway between Portugal and Spain.

The city is celebrated for its thermal springs, some of the hottest in Europe, which drew the Romans to establish the settlement of Aquae Flaviae in the 1st century AD. Beyond its healing waters, Chaves offers a rich array of sights, from the remarkably preserved Roman bridge to a medieval castle keep and appealing cobbled streets.

From Aquae Flaviae to Chaves

The history of Chaves stretches back to prehistoric times, with archaeological evidence of human activity in the Paleolithic era. The region saw continuous human settlement, with proto-historic and Castro culture remnants found in the Alto Tâmega valley. The arrival of the Roman legions in the 3rd century BC marked a significant turning point. Recognizing the strategic location and the distinctive thermal springs, the Romans established a settlement here, initially called Aquae Flaviae, in honor of Emperor Titus Flavius Vespasianus, who granted it municipium status in 79 AD.

The Romans left an indelible mark on Chaves, constructing protective walls, exploiting local mines, and, most notably, building the Ponte de Trajano (Trajan's Bridge) over the Tâmega River. This bridge, completed in 104 AD, was part of a major Roman road connecting Braga to Astorga in Spain. The thermal baths, with waters reaching 73°C (163°F), were a vital social gathering point and therapeutic center.

Following Roman rule, Chaves experienced successive periods of dominion by the Suebi, Visigoths, and Moors. The city was reconquered by Alfonso I of Asturias in 773 AD, then fell back to Moorish control in the early 10th century, before being definitively rescued by Alfonso III of León in the 11th century. During the Christian Reconquest, King Dinis ordered the construction of the formidable castle keep and defensive walls that still define the city's old town. Chaves officially became part of Portugal around 1160.

In the 17th century, during the Portuguese Restoration Wars, further fortifications like the Forts of São Francisco and São Neutel were built. The city also played a role in the 19th-century Napoleonic invasions, where French troops suffered their first defeat on Portuguese soil in Chaves. Chaves was officially elevated to city status on March 12, 1929.

The Enduring Legacy of the Bragança Dynasty

Chaves holds a special place in Portuguese history as the birthplace of the House of Bragança. This influential dynasty, which would go on to rule Portugal and Brazil until the 20th century, began when Constable Nuno Álvares Pereira bestowed the town and its castle upon his son-in-law, Afonso, the illegitimate son of King João I, who became the 1st Duke of Bragança.

A Continuous Spa Tradition

While the thermal springs were known and utilized by the Romans, their scientific properties were not fully understood until much later. In 1726, Francisco da Fonseca Henriques, King João V's physician, mentioned Chaves Hot Springs in the first book on Portuguese mineral and medicinal waters. However, it wasn't until 1856 that their unique bicarbonated, sodium-rich, mineral, and hydrogen properties were highlighted. The modern spa industry in Chaves continues this ancient tradition, offering various therapeutic treatments.

Begin your exploration at the Ponte de Trajano, the iconic Roman bridge that has spanned the Tâmega River for nearly two millennia. Observe the two original Roman milestones at its center, testaments to its ancient origins. From there, wander through the historic old town, with its narrow, appealing streets and traditional granite houses.

Ascend to the Castelo de Chaves, a medieval fortress dominated by its 14th-century keep. Climb to the top for expansive views of the city, the river, and the surrounding Trás-os-Montes landscape. Inside the keep, a small military museum showcases armor, weapons, and maps. Adjacent to the castle is Praça de Camões, a charming central square free of modern buildings, offering a glimpse into Chaves' historical ambiance.

Delve into the city's Roman past at the Museu das Termas Romanas de Chaves, where glass walkways allow you to view the excavated remains of the largest Roman therapeutic baths on the Iberian Peninsula. For a taste of local culture, visit the Fonte do Tabolado, where you can sample the hot thermal water directly from the source, a local tradition. Don't miss the Igreja Matriz de Santa Maria Maior, a 12th-century church with a Romanesque façade. The Nadir Afonso Contemporary Art Museum, a modern building designed by Álvaro Siza Vieira, offers a contrast with its collection of works by the Portuguese painter Nadir Afonso.

Consider a stroll along the Alameda do Tabolado riverfront promenade, or explore the Poldras de Chaves, ancient stepping stones across the Tâmega River. For those interested in the region's military history, the 17th-century Forte de São Neutel and the converted Forte de São Francisco (now a hotel) are also worth a visit.

Chaves experiences a Mediterranean climate with continental influences, meaning hot summers and cooler winters. The best times to visit are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when temperatures are mild, skies are clear, and crowds are fewer. Average spring highs range from 17°C (63°F) to 24°C (75°F). Early autumn is similarly pleasant, with temperatures in September averaging 26°C (79°F) and October in the low 70s (around 20-23°C). Summers (June to August) are hot and dry, with July and August averaging 30°C (86°F) and minimal rain, ideal for hot-weather activities and lively street parties. Winters (December to February) are mild but damp, with daytime highs around 11-13°C (52-55°F), offering a quieter experience and perfect conditions for enjoying the thermal baths.

Chaves is a compact city, making it highly walkable, especially within the historic center. Comfortable shoes are recommended due to appealing streets. While driving within the historic core is not possible, car parks are available on the edge of the old town, providing easy access to the center. A car is beneficial for exploring the wider Trás-os-Montes region, including the Douro Valley or Peneda-Gerês National Park. Local taxis are reliable and affordable for shorter distances or late-night returns. Long-distance buses connect Chaves to major cities like Porto and Lisbon, though timetables can be limited. The nearest train station is in Vila Real.

The cost of living in Chaves is notably lower than in Portugal's coastal cities. A meal at a local restaurant typically costs €8-12, and a coffee with a pastel de nata around €2. Utilities for an apartment range from €80-120 monthly. Fresh produce from local markets is also very affordable.