Civita

Civita di Bagnoregio, often called 'The Dying Town' (La città che muore), is a mesmerizing village in central Italy, situated precariously atop a volcanic plateau. Its dramatic isolation, accessible only by a long pedestrian bridge, makes it a truly unique destination. This ancient settlement, founded by the Etruscans over 2,500 years ago, feels suspended in time, offering visitors a profound sense of history and an intimate connection with a landscape constantly battling the forces of nature.

As you traverse the bridge, the views of the surrounding Valle dei Calanchi—a striking valley of clay badlands—reveal the geological processes that have shaped Civita's destiny. The village itself is a labyrinth of medieval stone buildings, narrow alleys, and intimate squares, adorned with delicate flowers and climbing plants. It's a place where every corner seems to hold a story, inviting you to wander and simply be, rather than rush through a checklist of attractions.

Civita's fragile existence is its most defining characteristic. The ongoing erosion of the soft volcanic rock means that, slowly but surely, the village is shrinking. This precariousness, however, has only heightened its allure, drawing visitors from around the globe eager to experience its ethereal beauty before it succumbs entirely to the relentless march of geological time.

## From Etruscan Stronghold to 'Dying Town' Civita di Bagnoregio's story stretches back over 2,500 years, beginning with the Etruscans who founded the settlement around 500 BC. They strategically chose this elevated location for its defensive advantages and commanding views over the Tiber River valley. The Etruscans laid out the town with an orthogonal street system, a plan still evident in the medieval layout today, and developed it into a flourishing trading hub. Traces of their presence remain, including the Bucaione tunnel and evidence of chamber tombs carved into the cliffs.

Following Etruscan rule, Civita fell under Roman dominion around 265 BC. The Romans continued the Etruscan work of rainwater drainage and stream containment, recognizing the importance of managing the unstable landscape. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the area experienced successive dominations by Visigoths, Goths, Byzantines, and Lombards. It was during the Lombard period that the nearby settlement, now Bagnoregio, earned its name 'Balneum Regis' (bath of the king), linked to King Desiderius.

The Middle Ages saw Civita grow, becoming a free commune around 1100. This era brought prosperity and saw the construction of many of the medieval buildings visible today, including the original structure of the Church of San Donato. The town was likely a walled city with numerous towers, though many have since succumbed to earthquakes and erosion. The 16th century marked a period of Renaissance wealth, with noble families building impressive palazzi along the main street.

However, Civita's precarious existence became starkly apparent with a series of catastrophic earthquakes, particularly a major one on June 10, 1695. This event caused significant damage, triggered massive landslides, and physically separated Civita from its larger suburb, Bagnoregio, with the formation of a new, wide cliff. The earthquake initiated a mass exodus, leading to a steady decline in population and importance. The bishop and municipal government relocated to Bagnoregio, and Civita became known as 'La città che muore' – 'The Dying Town' – due to the accelerating erosion of its volcanic tufa base.

By the 19th century, Civita's isolation deepened as erosion intensified. The original settlement became increasingly fragile, with more and more of the cliff eroding away, taking buildings with it. Despite ongoing efforts to preserve it, Civita di Bagnoregio remains on the list of the 100 Most Endangered Sites. Today, its unique history, location, and architecture have transformed it into a significant tourist attraction, with a small permanent population living amidst thousands of daily visitors.

Your visit to Civita di Bagnoregio begins long before you set foot in the village itself. From the Belvedere viewpoint in Bagnoregio, you'll get your first panoramic glimpse of Civita dramatically situated on its isolated hill, a truly iconic sight, especially at sunrise or sunset.

The only way into Civita is by crossing the long, reinforced concrete pedestrian bridge. This walk offers expansive views of the Valle dei Calanchi and sets the stage for entering a world suspended in time.

Upon entering, you'll pass through Porta Santa Maria (also known as Porta Cava), the only remaining of Civita's original five gates. This ancient stone archway, adorned with lions symbolizing victory, leads you into the heart of the village.

The main piazza, Piazza San Donato, is the active center of Civita. Here you'll find the Church of San Donato, a Romanesque church with a bell tower, which once served as a cathedral. Inside, you can admire a wooden crucifix from Donatello's school and Perugino-style frescoes.

Wander through the narrow, stone-paved streets, where every turn reveals charming medieval stone buildings, flower-filled balconies, and intimate gardens. Don't miss the Palazzo Alemanni, a medieval building that now houses the Geological and Landslides Museum, offering insights into the natural forces shaping Civita. You can also explore the tiny town jail, carved directly into the rock.

Seek out the Bucaione, a deep Etruscan tunnel that runs through the lowest part of the town, providing a glimpse into Civita's ancient past and offering access to the valley below.

The most pleasant times to visit Civita di Bagnoregio are spring and autumn, when the weather is mild, and the surrounding Valle dei Calanchi is particularly beautiful. During these seasons, the crowds are also more manageable. Summer, especially July and August, sees a significant increase in tourists and can be quite hot. If visiting in summer, aim to arrive early in the morning (between 8 AM and 9 AM) or later in the evening (after 7 PM) to avoid the heat and the largest crowds. Winter offers a quieter, more peaceful experience, though temperatures are cold and breezy.

Civita di Bagnoregio is a pedestrian-only village. If you arrive by car, you'll need to park in Bagnoregio, the larger town connected by the footbridge. There are paid parking lots available at the base of the pedestrian bridge. A shuttle can take you closer to the bridge entrance, or you can walk, though the path is uphill and can be steep.

To enter Civita, there is a fee, typically €3 on weekdays and €5 on weekends and public holidays. This fee contributes to the town's preservation and upkeep. Entrance is free for children under 6, people with disabilities, and guests staying at accommodation facilities within Civita. You can purchase tickets at the info point just outside Civita.

Wear comfortable, sturdy walking shoes, as the village's stone-paved streets are uneven. Bring water, especially in warmer months, and consider a hat. While there are restaurants, bars, and artisan shops within Civita, it's not a place for a detailed checklist of attractions; rather, it's an experience of immersion.