Cordova

Cordova is a port city in Alaska, resting on Orca Inlet at the eastern edge of Prince William Sound, near the mouth of the Copper River. This remote community, with a population of around 2,600, is embraced by untamed wilderness, including the expansive Copper River Delta and the Chugach National Forest. Accessible only by plane or ferry, Cordova offers a unique glimpse into a working Alaskan fishing town, where the rhythm of life is deeply connected to the sea and the surrounding natural environment.

The town's identity is inextricably linked to its abundant natural resources, particularly the world-renowned Copper River salmon. Beyond its thriving fishing industry, Cordova serves as a gateway to exploring the immense Copper River Delta, a crucial wetland teeming with wildlife, and the rugged beauty of Prince William Sound. Visitors can expect an authentic Alaskan experience, where the raw power of nature and the resilience of a close-knit community are ever-present.

From Indigenous Homeland to Copper Capital

The area around Cordova has been the ancestral homeland of the Eyak people for approximately ten thousand years, with additional presence from Chugach, Tlingit, and Athabaskan peoples. The Eyak traditionally served as middlemen for traders, benefiting from the generous lands and waters. The Ilanka Cultural Center in Cordova today honors the deep heritage and culture of the Eyak, Alutiiq, Ahtna, and Tlingit peoples, dedicated to preserving Native crafts and skills.

European contact began in 1790 when Spanish explorer Salvador Fidalgo named the inlet 'Puerto Cordova.' However, significant non-Native settlement didn't occur until the turn of the 20th century, driven by the discovery of high-grade copper ore at Kennecott, inland from the coast. The need to transport this valuable mineral to a deepwater port led to a flurry of activity and competition among companies.

Michael J. Heney, a railroad builder, surveyed a route down the Copper River to Orca Inlet. In 1905, a group of businessmen from Valdez formed the Cordova Townsite Company, laying claim to land near the existing Native village of Eyak in anticipation of a railroad terminus. Heney bought into the investment company in 1906, and the new townsite was officially named 'Cordova' after Fidalgo's original designation for the inlet. The construction of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway began, and despite an initial setback where Katalla was chosen as the terminus before being destroyed by a storm, Cordova ultimately became the railroad's port.

Cordova grew swiftly; lots sold rapidly, and businesses from Eyak were dismantled and reassembled in the new town. The city was incorporated in 1909, and by 1910, its population exceeded 2,400. From 1911 to 1938, the railroad transported over 200 million tons of copper ore through Cordova, making it a vital transportation hub. When the Kennecott Mine closed in 1938, and the railroad ceased operations due to a workers' strike, Cordova's economy shifted. Fishing, which had always been present, became the primary economic driver by the early 1940s, a role it maintains to this day.

Resilience in the Face of Disaster

Cordova's history is also marked by a series of natural and man-made disasters that have tested the community's resilience. The 1964 Great Alaskan Earthquake caused significant damage to infrastructure, including roads and bridges, and dramatically altered the local ecosystem by uplifting the ocean floor, which destroyed the once-thriving razor clam industry. In 1989, the Exxon Valdez oil spill had a devastating impact on the region's salmon and herring populations, leading to an economic recession and long-term ecological disruption. Despite these challenges, Cordovans have consistently demonstrated their fortitude, rebuilding and adapting to maintain their unique way of life.

Begin your exploration at the Ilanka Cultural Center, where you can delve into the profound heritage of the Eyak, Alutiiq, Ahtna, and Tlingit peoples through exhibits and artifacts, including a whale skeleton. For a deeper dive into local history, the Cordova Historical Museum offers insights into marine life, the railroad era, and even features a three-seat bidarka (kayak) made from spruce pine and sealskin.

Embrace Cordova's wild surroundings by heading out on the Copper River Highway. While the Million Dollar Bridge at the end is currently inaccessible by road due to washouts, boat tours can still take you to see this historic structure and the impressive Childs Glacier. Along the highway, you can hike, camp, canoe, and enjoy sport fishing, all while scanning the marshlands for moose and eagles. A short hike from the Cordova Airport leads to Sheridan Glacier, one of Alaska's most accessible glaciers, offering dramatic views and opportunities for kayaking among ice caves.

For bird enthusiasts, the Copper River Delta is a vital place, especially in May when millions of shorebirds migrate through. You can also spot seals and sea otters in the small boat harbor, and various waterfowl on Eyak Lake. Adventurers can rent kayaks to paddle Orca Inlet or arrange guided tours for whitewater rafting on the Copper River. In winter, Mount Eyak offers skiing and snowboarding with a single chairlift and 30 trails, alongside opportunities for heli-skiing.

The best time to visit Cordova largely depends on your interests. For prime fishing and wildlife viewing, particularly the celebrated Copper River salmon runs, mid-May through summer is ideal. Birdwatchers will find May especially rewarding, as up to 20 million shorebirds migrate through the Copper River Delta. Summer months also offer the warmest temperatures, averaging between 49 and 63 degrees Fahrenheit. If you're looking to experience a unique local winter tradition, plan your trip for late January or early February to catch the annual Iceworm Festival. Winter temperatures typically range from 17 to 29 degrees Fahrenheit, with significant snowfall.

Cordova is not connected to Alaska's road system, so access is exclusively by air or by the Alaska Marine Highway ferry system. The Merle K. “Mudhole” Smith Airport (CDV) offers daily flights from Seattle or Anchorage. Once in Cordova, the town is small enough to navigate on foot, and many locals know each other by first name. Car rentals are available, which can be useful for exploring the Copper River Highway, though be aware that sections of the highway can be washed out.

Accommodation options include hotels, lodges, and guesthouses. It's advisable to book well in advance, especially during the busy summer fishing season when the population can nearly double. The local economy is heavily reliant on fishing, so expect fresh seafood to be a highlight of dining options. Cordova has a median household income of $85,132 and a low poverty rate of 2.91%. While the local economy is dominated by fisheries, healthcare, public administration, and other services also provide employment.