Folegandros

Folegandros, a small Greek island in the Aegean Sea, is part of the Cyclades group, situated between Milos and Santorini. With a population of around 700 inhabitants, it offers a more unspoiled and traditional atmosphere than its more famous neighbors. The island is characterized by its dramatic topography, featuring tall cliffs, rugged hills, and a captivating Chora (capital) built at the edge of a 200-meter-high cliff.

Folegandros has preserved much of its authentic character, with mild tourism development allowing it to maintain its unique physiognomy. It's a destination for those seeking beauty without the bustle, offering a slow pace that invites immediate disconnection. The island's small size makes it easily explorable, whether you're drawn to its pristine beaches, panoramic views, or the allure of its traditional villages.

Ancient Origins and Athenian Rule

The history of Folegandros stretches back to prehistoric times, with the Cares from Asia Minor believed to be the island's first inhabitants. They were followed by the Cretans, led by a figure named Folegandros, after whom the island is thought to have been named. Later, Dorians settled on the island, and inscriptions found by archaeologists support this. In the 5th century BC, Folegandros came under Athenian rule, paying an annual tax of 2,000 Attican drachmas to Athens. During this period, the inhabitants worshipped Artemis and Apollo, with remains of a sanctuary of Artemis found in Chora.

Venetian and Ottoman Eras

In 1207, the Venetian Marco Sanudo conquered Folegandros, bringing it under Venetian rule for over three centuries. During this time, in 1212, Sanudo built a large fortress at the highest point of Chora. The island remained under Venetian control until 1566, when it was taken by the Ottoman Turks. The Ottoman rule saw periods of hardship, including an attack in 1715 by Kapoudan Passas Tzanoum Hotza, who enslaved many residents in retaliation for their perceived support of pirates.

Modern History and Place of Exile

Folegandros was liberated from Turkish rule in 1828 and integrated into the newly established Greek state in 1830. In the 20th century, from 1900 to 1970, the island served as a place of exile for political prisoners, particularly during the 4th of August regime (1936-1941). These exiled prisoners often engaged in useful works and fostered cordial relationships with the local residents, even participating in local fairs and festivals with their wood carving skills. Notably, Folegandros only received electricity about 30 years ago, and its single paved road, spanning 18 kilometers, was completed within the last two decades.

Folegandros offers a blend of natural beauty and traditional Cycladic allure. The island's capital, Chora, is a car-free labyrinth of narrow, paved streets that open into inviting squares. Here, you can explore the Kastro, the oldest part of Chora, which has been continuously inhabited since its establishment in 1215. The Kastro features two narrow pedestrian streets with tunnel-like walkways, situated between the town and the sea cliffs.

A recommended experience is the walk to the Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary), a whitewashed church set on a hill above Chora. The zig-zagging path takes about 15 minutes and offers sweeping views of the island and the Aegean Sea, making it a popular spot for sunset. The church itself is believed to be built on the ruins of an ancient temple, with marble parts and inscriptions from the original structure still visible.

Beyond Chora, visit Ano Meria, the island's second-largest settlement. This traditional village offers a glimpse into an agricultural way of life, with houses spread out to form 'Themonies.' Here, you'll find the Ecological and Folklore Museum, housed in a traditional agricultural dwelling, showcasing old premises like a wood oven, stable, and olive press.

For outdoor enthusiasts, Folegandros has numerous hiking routes, including a scenic trail between Ano Meria and Chora. The island's coastline also features secluded coves and beaches, many accessible by foot or boat. Katergo beach, with its white pebbles and turquoise water, is considered one of the island's finest and can be reached by sea taxi from Karavostasis or via a steep hiking trail.

Folegandros is best visited from May through October, when the weather is pleasant and the water is warm. July and August are the busiest months, with temperatures around 25-30°C (77-86°F), but also the highest prices and crowds. For a more peaceful experience with comfortable temperatures for hiking and swimming, consider the shoulder seasons of May-June or September-October. During these months, temperatures are mild to warm, 18-25°C (64-77°F), and the Meltemi winds are less common. Winter (November-April) offers an authentic local experience with very few tourists and lower prices, though many businesses may be closed and ferry connections are limited.

Folegandros does not have an airport, so the only way to reach it is by ferry. The most convenient option from overseas is to fly to Santorini (JTR) and then take a high-speed ferry, which takes approximately 50 minutes to an hour. Alternatively, you can fly to Athens and take a ferry from Piraeus port, with high-speed ferries taking around 4 hours and standard vessels 7-9 hours.

Getting around Folegandros can be done via a limited public bus service connecting Chora, Karavostasis (the port), and Agali beach. However, many travelers recommend renting an ATV, scooter, or car for more flexibility to explore the island's rugged terrain and secluded spots. Taxis are also available, but it's advisable to book in advance, especially during peak season. For beaches inaccessible by road, sea buses or water taxis are available from Karavostasis or Agali.