Mesta

Mesta, on the Greek island of Chios, is a meticulously preserved medieval village that transports visitors back to the Byzantine era. Declared a protected monument, its distinctive architecture sets it apart, resembling a fortified castle rather than a typical village. The village is one of the famed 'Mastic Villages' of Southern Chios, an area recognized by UNESCO for its unique mastic production and medieval character.

Exploring Mesta is an experience of discovery, with its narrow, stone-built streets often covered by arches, forming a captivating labyrinth. This intricate design, along with the houses built closely together to form a protective outer wall, speaks to a history shaped by the need for defense against pirate raids. Beyond its architectural marvels, Mesta offers a tranquil atmosphere, inviting visitors to wander its alleys, discover its charming squares, and appreciate the enduring traditions of its inhabitants.

A Fortified Past and the Scent of Mastic

Mesta's origins trace back to the 12th century during the Byzantine era. The village was strategically designed as a fortress, a response to the persistent threat of pirate attacks that plagued the Aegean. The very name 'Mesta' is thought to derive from the Greek word 'mesti,' meaning 'mature' or 'knowledgeable,' reflecting the villagers' wise decision to consolidate into a well-fortified settlement.

The village's defensive architecture is a defining characteristic. Houses were constructed side-by-side, creating a continuous, unbroken outer wall that served as the village's primary defense, with minimal outward-facing windows. Circular towers at each of the village's five corners further enhanced its impregnability. The narrow, often covered, streets form a bewildering labyrinth, intentionally designed to disorient and trap invaders. This ingenious layout proved effective, with Mesta successfully resisting pirate canons and even the devastating earthquake of 1881 that destroyed much of Chios.

During the Genoese occupation of Chios (1346-1566), Mesta's fortifications were further strengthened. The Genoese recognized the village's strategic importance, particularly due to its proximity to Limenas, a port that offered a safe haven from Turkish adversaries. Mesta's enduring significance was also tied to mastic, a unique tree resin harvested on Chios for at least 2,500 years. Mastic was a highly prized commodity, used for everything from medicine to chewing gum, making the mastic-producing villages, including Mesta, frequent targets for those seeking to steal this valuable product. Under Turkish rule (1566-1912), the mastic villages were granted special privileges due to the Ottoman aristocracy's demand for mastic.

The Greek War of Independence in 1822 brought immense hardship to Chios, including the tragic Chios Massacre, which saw many villagers killed or enslaved. Despite these challenges, Mesta's resilient community continued to preserve its 14th-century traditions, which are still evident today.

Wandering through Mesta is an experience in itself, with its stone-built, labyrinthine alleys and arched passageways inviting exploration. The village is entirely pedestrianized, allowing for peaceful strolls. The central square, known as 'Livadi' (meadow) by locals, is a hub of activity with tavernas and cafes.

Among Mesta's most significant landmarks is the Taxiarchis Church, dedicated to the Archangels Michael and Gabriel. This impressive church, one of the largest in Chios, was built in 1868 on the site of the village's former central castle tower. Its interior holds intricate decorations, and the pebbled courtyard and bell tower, constructed from stone from Thymiana village, are notable features. The Old Taxiarchis Church, dating back to around 1412, is the oldest monument in Mesta, featuring a wooden iconostasis from 1833.

Other churches within the village include the chapels of St. Paraskevi and St. George, with St. Paraskevi notably preserving frescoes that survived the 1822 massacre. Beyond the village walls, you can find the Church of St. Nektarios near the cemetery.

For a taste of local life, seek out traditional loukoumades (doughnuts with Greek toppings) at places like Kanellos Donuts. Mesta is also known for its unique wine, 'Mestousiko,' and 'souma,' a potent distilled drink made from figs and grapes.

The most pleasant times to visit Mesta are during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October). During these months, the weather is warm and comfortable, and the village experiences fewer crowds than the peak summer season. July and August are the warmest months, with daytime temperatures reaching around 30°C (86°F), but they are also the busiest. Many local businesses, including tavernas and cafes, operate between April and October, with some closing during the winter months.

Mesta is located approximately 35 kilometers southwest of Chios Town. While a rental car offers the most flexibility for exploring Chios and its surrounding areas, there is public bus service connecting Mesta to Chios Town. The bus journey takes about 50-55 minutes and operates twice daily on weekdays. Parking is available in a municipal lot just outside the village walls, as cars are not permitted within Mesta's pedestrianized medieval streets.

Inside the village, the stone streets can be uneven, so comfortable walking shoes are highly recommended. While Mesta offers a tranquil escape, it's a good idea to book accommodations and popular restaurants in advance, especially during peak season. Ferries connect Mesta's port (Limenas) to other islands like Lesbos and to mainland ports such as Piraeus and Lavrio.