Saulieu

Saulieu, a small town in the Côte-d'Or department of Burgundy, serves as the eastern entrance to the Morvan Regional Natural Park. This picturesque commune, known as the capital of the Morvan, sits at the crossroads of ancient Roman roads, which historically shaped its activity and reputation. Today, Saulieu is particularly esteemed for its gastronomy, exemplified by the two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Relais Bernard Loiseau.

This town offers a blend of cultural heritage and natural beauty. Visitors can explore historical monuments, savor local culinary specialties, and engage in various outdoor activities within the Morvan Regional Natural Park, such as hiking, cycling, and horseback riding. Saulieu's allure lies in its ability to combine a storied past with a lively present, making it a compelling stop for those exploring Burgundy and the Morvan.

## From Roman Crossroads to Medieval Stronghold Saulieu's origins trace back to Roman times, when it was known as Sidolocum (or Sedelocus), a significant stop on the Roman roads connecting Lyon to Boulogne-sur-Mer and Bibracte to Alesia. This strategic location fostered its growth as a bustling center for trade and travel, where people could rest and resupply. Evidence of this ancient past can still be found in tombs and engravings on the hills overlooking the modern town.

In the 6th century, a monastery was founded in Saulieu. However, in 731, Arab incursions through the Morvan left Saulieu and its abbey in ruins. Charlemagne, in the late 8th century, played a role in reviving the Abbey of Saint Andoche. The town continued to develop around the Basilica of Saint Andoche, which became a key religious site and pilgrimage destination during the Middle Ages.

## Fortifications and French Figures Saulieu's importance led to its fortification. In 1225, a charter granted to the Sédélociens by Bishop Guy de Vergy spurred the construction of protective walls. These defenses, however, were not impregnable; in 1359, during the Hundred Years' War, the English partly destroyed the walls, castle, and houses. The town subsequently repaired its ramparts around 1360. The 14th-century Auxois Tower stands today as the last vestige of these once-extensive fortifications.

Throughout its history, Saulieu has seen the passage of notable figures. Napoleon Bonaparte traveled through Saulieu on his return from Elba. More recently, French President François Mitterrand was a regular visitor to the renowned restaurant of chef Bernard Loiseau between 1981 and 1995. This connection to both historical and modern French luminaries underscores Saulieu's enduring appeal.

Begin your exploration at the Basilique Saint-Andoche, a Romanesque church dating from the 12th century. Its facade features two towers of unequal height, and inside, the carved capitals depict various biblical stories and religious teachings. Notice the 18th-century fountain in the cobbled square before the basilica.

Adjacent to the basilica is the Musée François Pompon, dedicated to the animal sculptor born in Saulieu. The museum houses many of his works, including the famous 'White Bear' sculpture, alongside sacred art, local gastronomy exhibits, and traditional Morvan artifacts. A life-sized bronze bull sculpture by Pompon stands at the town's northern entrance.

Walk through the old town to discover picturesque streets, half-timbered dwellings, and numerous statues of the Virgin Mary adorning house facades. The Auxois Tower, a remnant of the 14th-century ramparts, also offers a glimpse into Saulieu's fortified past.

For those seeking natural beauty, Saulieu is the entrance to the Morvan Regional Natural Park. The park offers opportunities for hiking, cycling, horseback riding, fishing, and bird watching amidst its woodlands, pastures, and lakes. Nearby Chamboux Lake and Lake Saint-Agnan are popular spots for enjoying the water and surrounding nature.

The most pleasant time to visit Saulieu for warm-weather activities is from late June to late August. During these months, temperatures are comfortable, with average highs in July reaching around 73°F (23°C). The skies are also clearest in July, offering more sunshine for outdoor exploration. The drier season generally lasts from late June to late September, with August typically having the fewest wet days. While May and September also offer comfortable weather, the peak summer months provide the best conditions for enjoying Saulieu's natural surroundings and outdoor activities.

Saulieu is located in the Côte-d'Or department of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in central-east France. It lies approximately 250 km southeast of Paris. The town is a convenient stop for those traveling between Paris and Lyon. A market is held every Saturday morning in the square, offering a variety of goods. Saulieu is also known for its gastronomy, with several restaurants, including the two-Michelin-starred Le Relais Bernard Loiseau, offering local and international dishes. For fresh produce and regional specialties, explore the open-air market. The town offers various accommodations, including hotels and vacation rentals. Information and maps for offline use can be downloaded.