Semur-en-Auxois

Semur-en-Auxois, a medieval town in Burgundy, France, rises dramatically from a bluff of rosy granite, almost entirely encircled by the meandering Armançon River. This fortified settlement, with an estimated population of around 4,000 inhabitants, offers a journey back in time through its well-preserved architecture and cobbled lanes. Its distinctive outline, defined by imposing ramparts and round towers, including the 44-meter-high Tour de l'Orle d'Or, stands as a testament to its protective past.

The town's unique geological foundation—a rosy granite outcrop—even lent its name to a period of the Early Jurassic, known as the Sinemurian Age, a detail presented by French palaeontologist Alcide d'Orbigny in 1842. Beyond its geological significance, Semur-en-Auxois invites visitors to wander its pedestrianized old town, discover historic bridges, and absorb the atmosphere of a place that has largely remained off the main tourist paths, allowing for a more unhurried exploration.

Semur-en-Auxois is not merely a collection of old stones; it is a living town where history is palpable, from the intricate details of its Gothic collegiate church to the lively Sunday market. Whether you are drawn to its medieval festivals, the allure of Burgundian cuisine, or simply the quiet charm of a town seemingly frozen in time, Semur-en-Auxois offers a distinctive and memorable experience.

From Roman Outpost to Burgundian Stronghold

The history of Semur-en-Auxois stretches back to the Roman era, with mentions of a settlement on its strategic hill dating as far back as 606 A.D. The town's name itself, appearing in the 8th century in the founding document of the Abbey of Flavigny, is believed to derive from the Latin words "senes muros," meaning "the old walls," hinting at its early fortifications. From its inception, Semur-en-Auxois played a defensive role, steadily evolving into an important and well-protected trading hub.

By the 9th century, Semur-en-Auxois was a bustling urban community. The first reference to its main church, the Collégiale Notre-Dame, appears in a charter from 879, identifying it as a dependent priory of the Benedictine abbey of Flavigny. The 12th century saw intense religious activity, with the Collégiale Notre-Dame, initially founded in 1123, serving as both a priory for monks and a parish church for the growing population by 1154. The church, a masterpiece of Burgundian Gothic, saw its main structure completed in the first half of the 13th century, with the façade and towers added in the 14th century, and the porch and side chapels in the 15th and 16th centuries. It was later restored in the 19th century by the renowned architect Viollet-le-Duc.

During the 14th century, the Dukes of Burgundy significantly reinforced Semur's defenses, constructing a dungeon and a keep. The castle, built on the narrowest part of the Armançon's meander, effectively sealed off the ridge. Its rectangular layout featured four round corner towers, with the northern tower serving as the keep, standing approximately 40 meters high with walls up to 5 meters thick at its base. This design is thought to be inspired by the "Philippian" style of French military architecture. Semur-en-Auxois remained loyal to the Burgundian Dukes, a loyalty that led to its occupation by French troops in 1478. The town's economic life also thrived due to its annual fairs, for which permanent structures were built. Over the centuries, the Armançon River was vital, powering tanneries and mills, though its flow was later reduced by the 19th-century Lac de Pont dam. Today, while much of the original 15th-century castle was dismantled in the 17th century, the impressive towers and ramparts continue to define the town's medieval character.

Begin your exploration at the Collégiale Notre-Dame, a striking example of Burgundian Gothic architecture dating from the 13th to 15th centuries. Admire its high, slender nave, detailed west façade, and sculpted portals, and look for the medieval gargoyles and imaginary animals adorning its upper eaves. Inside, discover 13th-century stained glass, a 16th-century painted altarpiece depicting the Tree of Jesse, and a 15th-century polychrome Entombment.

Walk the ramparts that encircle the town, offering panoramic views of the Armançon Valley and the rosy granite bluff upon which Semur stands. Four impressive round towers remain from the 13th-century castle, including the Tour de l'Orle d'Or, which houses a museum with historical, natural sciences, and technological collections. The Pont Joly and Pont Pinard bridges provide iconic postcard views of the town's towers reflected in the river, especially captivating in the evening light.

Wander through the old town's cobbled streets, past half-timbered houses and historic gates like the Porte Sauvigny. The Municipal Museum, housed in the former 17th-century Jacobin convent, presents archaeological, geological, natural history, and fine art collections. Do not miss the Parc Joly, a recently accessible public park. For a unique perspective, consider a stroll along the towpath of the Canal de Bourgogne, which connects the Yonne to the Saône and offers picturesque landscapes for walking or cycling.

The most pleasant time to visit Semur-en-Auxois for warm-weather activities is from late June to early September, when temperatures are comfortable and skies are often clear. July is typically the sunniest month, with an average high of 24°C (75°F). May and September also offer favorable weather conditions.

For those interested in local festivities, May is a lively month. The Fête de la Bague, France's oldest horse race dating back to 1639, takes place annually on May 31st. The Medieval Festival also transforms the town into a historical reenactment site, usually held from May 8th to 10th. These events can make accommodation in high demand, so booking in advance is advisable.

Semur-en-Auxois, with a population of approximately 4,000 residents, is easily explored on foot, as many streets within the medieval walls are pedestrian-only. Free car parks are available around the periphery of the old town. The local tourist office, located near one of the historic city gates, can provide maps and information.

The town is situated on the former national route 80 (now RD 980) and has an exit from the A6 motorway, making it accessible by car. For those traveling by train, the nearest station is Montbard, on the Paris–Dijon line, from which a bus or taxi can complete the journey to Semur-en-Auxois.

Dining in Semur-en-Auxois offers a taste of Burgundian gastronomy, with local restaurants serving dishes like œufs en meurette and boeuf bourguignon. The Sunday market, held from 8 AM to 1 PM, is a local gathering point for fresh produce and regional specialties like Époisses cheese.