Comillas

Comillas, a captivating town on Spain's northern coast in Cantabria, offers a distinctive blend of architectural grandeur and coastal allure. Once a medieval fishing village, it underwent a remarkable transformation in the late 19th century, evolving into a distinguished summer retreat for Spanish royalty and nobility. This period saw the arrival of Catalan Modernist architecture, creating an unusual and striking landscape against the backdrop of the Cantabrian Sea and, in the distance, the snow-capped Picos de Europa mountains.

The town is a designated Historic-Artistic Site, recognized for its stone-paved lanes, ancestral houses, and significant Modernist buildings. Visitors can explore a rich architectural legacy that tells a story of wealth, influence, and artistic innovation, all while enjoying the relaxed atmosphere of a Cantabrian coastal community.

## The Rise of a Noble Retreat Comillas traces its origins back to prehistoric times, with evidence of early inhabitants found in local caverns. During the Middle Ages, it was a small village sustained by fishing, agriculture, and cattle farming. The town earned the moniker "Town of the Bishops" because five local priests ascended to bishoprics in various dioceses.

The true turning point for Comillas arrived in the late 19th century, largely due to Antonio López y López, a local who amassed a vast fortune in Cuba. Upon his return to Spain, he became the first Marqués of Comillas and invested heavily in his hometown. His influence and friendship with King Alfonso XII led to Comillas becoming a favored summer destination for the Spanish royal family and aristocracy. This influx of wealth and prestige attracted some of the most prominent Catalan Modernist architects of the era, including Antoni Gaudí and Joan Martorell, leaving an indelible architectural legacy.

## Architectural Masterpieces Among the most iconic structures is El Capricho de Gaudí, a spirited and whimsical villa built between 1883 and 1885. Its facade is adorned with ceramic tiles featuring sunflowers, and its design showcases Gaudí's early interest in Oriental and Islamic architecture. Nearby stands the Palacio de Sobrellano, a Neo-Gothic palace designed by Joan Martorell and built between 1881 and 1888 for the first Marqués. This grand residence features furniture designed by Gaudí and was, notably, the first building in Spain to have electric lighting.

Another significant landmark is the former Pontifical University of Comillas, an imposing structure that overlooks the town. Originally founded as a seminary in 1890 by Pope Leo XIII, it was later elevated to a Pontifical University. While the university eventually relocated to Madrid in 1969, its original buildings in Comillas remain a testament to the town's historical importance and architectural splendor. The town was declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1985.

Begin your exploration at the Palacio de Sobrellano, a striking Neo-Gothic palace completed in 1888. Take a guided tour to see its grand salon with frescos depicting the Marqués's family contributions to Spanish history and admire the furniture designed by Antoni Gaudí. Adjacent to the palace is the Chapel-Pantheon, also designed by Martorell, which served as the final resting place for the Marqués and his family.

A short walk will lead you to El Capricho de Gaudí, a fantastical villa known for its distinctive sunflower ceramic tiles and minaret-like tower. Explore its playful design and learn about Gaudí's early architectural vision. From there, ascend to the Antigua Universidad Pontificia de Comillas, an impressive architectural complex offering wide views of the town and its surroundings.

Stroll through the historic center, with its stone-paved lanes and traditional houses, leading to the Plaza de la Constitución and the Church of San Cristóbal. Do not overlook the Comillas Cemetery, which incorporates the ruins of a 15th-century church and features Josep Llimona's modernist sculpture, "The Exterminating Angel." For a taste of the sea, visit the Comillas Harbour, a small inlet where traditional fishing boats still operate. The Playa de Comillas offers a golden sand beach framed by the Cantabrian coastline, with rock formations that create natural pools at low tide.

The best time to visit Comillas for warm-weather activities is from late June to early September. During these months, average daytime temperatures range from 22°C to 23°C (72°F to 73°F), with July being the clearest and sunniest month. While July and August are the most active, visiting in May, June, or September offers pleasant weather with fewer visitors. Rainfall is lowest in July.

Comillas is approximately 50 kilometers from Santander. Regular buses connect Comillas to Santander and other nearby towns, making it accessible for day trips or longer stays. The town's historic center is compact and pedestrian-friendly, ideal for leisurely strolls. For those arriving by car, consider arriving early, especially on market Fridays, as parking can be a challenge. Comillas is committed to accessibility, with adapted public spaces, ramps, and easy-access areas in many of its emblematic sites like El Capricho and Palacio de Sobrellano. The local cuisine emphasizes fresh seafood from the Cantabrian Sea, with dishes like rabas (fried squid) and marmitako (tuna stew) being popular choices.