Tazones

Tazones unfolds as a small fishing village along the Cantabrian coastline of Asturias, Spain. Its colorful houses gather intimately around a busy harbor, offering a window into a maritime past, where centuries-old traditions intertwine with a lively present. Its narrow, winding streets and traditional fishing homes contribute to its designation as a Historic-Artistic Site by the Principality of Asturias.

Overlooking the Cantabrian Sea, Tazones once sustained itself through whaling, a practice now replaced by fishing and tourism as primary sources of income. The village is part of the larger municipality of Villaviciosa, an area celebrated for its natural splendor and culinary heritage, particularly its cider production. Tazones itself has evolved into a center for gastronomic exploration, drawing visitors with its fresh seafood and traditional Asturian dishes.

The Unplanned Arrival of an Emperor

Tazones occupies a singular place in Spanish history due to an unforeseen event in 1517. Charles V, then a 17-year-old prince born and raised in Flanders, journeyed by sea to Spain for his coronation. His intended destination was the port of Santander, but a squall in the Bay of Biscay diverted his fleet of forty ships. By chance, the royal vessel arrived in the small harbor of Tazones on September 19, 1517. This marked Charles V's inaugural step onto Spanish soil, an event that etched the diminutive village into historical records.

Upon his unexpected arrival, the unassuming fishing village initially mistook the young Fleming and his court for pirates, offering a memorable welcome. Following his reception in Tazones, Charles V traveled to the nearby town of Villaviciosa, where he resided for four days at the Casa de los Hevia, before continuing his journey to Valladolid to be sworn in as King on February 9, 1518. This route, linking Tazones and Villaviciosa, now forms a historical path, allowing visitors to traverse 11 kilometers through hamlets, orchards, and protected landscapes, reliving the dawn of an imperial reign.

From Whaling to Gastronomy

For centuries, Tazones drew its livelihood from the sea. The village functioned as a whaling port, with the Plaza del Riveru serving as the location where whales were brought ashore and processed. As whaling diminished, the village shifted its focus to fishing and, more recently, to tourism. The old quarters of San Roque and San Miguel, with their traditional architecture, were recognized as sites of historic and artistic interest by the Principality of Asturias on June 17, 1991, further enhancing Tazones' appeal to visitors. Today, the village is celebrated for its culinary offerings, particularly its fresh seafood, delivered daily by the few boats that still venture out to sea.

Begin your exploration within the historic quarters of San Roque and San Miguel, recognized for their unique past and architecture. Wander through the narrow, winding streets and admire the brightly colored traditional fishing houses, many adorned with wooden balconies. A notable sight is the Casa de las Conchas, a private home in the San Miguel neighborhood with a facade entirely covered in various seashells.

The Parish Church of Tazones, situated in the San Miguel neighborhood, was constructed in 1950, replacing an earlier church destroyed in 1936 during the Spanish Civil War. It shelters an image of the Manolin Child and a crucifix, the only items preserved from the original church. Take a leisurely stroll along Tazones Beach, a 200-meter sandy expanse beside the harbor, believed to be the landing spot of Charles V. At low tide, explore the rock shelf at the far-right edge of the beach to uncover dinosaur footprints. For sweeping views of the rugged coastline, follow the Tazones coastal path, which offers vantage points ideal for nature lovers and birdwatchers. The Tazones Lighthouse, operational since 1864, stands as another significant landmark.

Do not overlook the opportunity to savor the local cuisine at one of the village's harbor-side restaurants, specializing in fresh Cantabrian seafood, such as fritos de pixín (fried monkfish) and arroz con bugre (sea-king crab rice).

The most agreeable times to visit Tazones are during the spring (March to May) and early autumn (September to November) months. In these periods, the weather is gentle, and visitor numbers are moderate, allowing for comfortable sightseeing and outdoor pursuits. August offers a particularly lively experience, as the village observes the San Roquín Festivities on August 17th, commemorating the landing of Charles V with a historical re-enactment. While summer (June to August) brings extended daylight hours and festivals, it can also be the warmest season, especially in central and southern Spain. Tazones experiences a wet climate, with November typically being the wettest month and July the driest.

Tazones is a small village within the municipality of Villaviciosa, Asturias, Spain. For those arriving by car, parking is required before entering the village and is free of charge. The village itself is compact and can be explored in half a day, though indulging in its gastronomy and Asturian cider can extend your stay. Many of the traditional fishermen's houses have been transformed into restaurants or accommodations. When dining, anticipate a focus on fresh seafood, a cornerstone of Asturian cuisine. The local custom for tapas often involves moving between several bars, typically between 1:30 PM and 3:00 PM or 8:30 PM and 10:30 PM. It is customary to order a drink and allow a few minutes before ordering food, as some establishments may offer a complimentary tapa.