Alausí

Alausí, a town in Ecuador's Chimborazo province, stands as a significant cultural stop in the Andean highlands. It rests at an average altitude of 2,340 meters (7,680 feet) above sea level, with a landscape characterized by steep streets and traditional houses. The town serves as the gateway to the Nariz del Diablo (Devil's Nose) railway, an engineering marvel that once connected the coast to the capital through the Andes.

Designated a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town) by the Ecuadorian Ministry of Tourism in 2019, Alausí invites visitors to explore its colonial grid, experience daily market life, and delve into a history shaped by both indigenous and Spanish influences. The town's atmosphere blends the rugged Andean landscape with a profound heritage, offering a glimpse into a way of life deeply connected to the region's past and the iconic railway that carved its path through dramatic cliffs.

From Ancient Roots to Railway Revolution

The territory surrounding Alausí was inhabited by the Puruhá people long before the arrival of Europeans. The name "Alausí" is believed to derive from the Puruhá language, possibly meaning "Valley of the Sun" or "Place of High Rocks," reflecting its Andean setting. The town's historical significance deepened with the arrival of Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century. Sebastián de Belalcázar officially founded the settlement of San Pedro de Alausí on June 29, 1534, making it one of the oldest European foundations in the Royal Audience of Quito. The Spanish laid out the town using a traditional colonial grid system, adapting their geometric ideals to the undulating Andean topography.

Over the colonial centuries, Alausí evolved into a vital agricultural and administrative center, briefly gaining provincial status during the independent Quito State in the early 19th century. However, the most transformative period in Alausí's history began in 1895 when Ecuadorian President General Eloy Alfaro envisioned a railway connecting Ecuador's coast to its capital through the Andes. This ambitious project, completed around 1902, included the Nariz del Diablo (Devil's Nose) section, considered one of the most challenging train routes in the world due to its steep grades and switchbacks carved into the mountain. The railway reached Alausí on September 8, 1902, transforming the quiet mountain town into a bustling commercial hub where coastal merchants met highland producers. The railway was not merely about transportation; it was an act of nation-building, aiming to modernize the economy, break local isolation, and foster a shared national identity.

In the 1990s, the train line faced neglect and devastating landslides, leading to its closure. While the Devil's Nose section was later renovated and reopened as a tourist attraction, passenger train services were suspended again in 2020. Alausí was also impacted by a major landslide in 2023, which destroyed numerous buildings and resulted in casualties. Despite these challenges, Alausí continues to preserve its colonial architecture and cultural heritage, earning it the title of "City of the Five Heritages" and recognition as a National Heritage site.

Alausí offers a blend of historic charm and Andean adventure. The most iconic experience is the Devil's Nose train ride, a 2.5-hour round trip from Alausí to Sibambe station, featuring dramatic switchbacks down steep slopes. At Sibambe, passengers can experience traditional dances and learn about local history from the Nizag community. While the train service has faced suspensions, it typically operates from Thursday to Sunday.

Beyond the railway, explore Alausí's colonial grid, centered around Plaza Sucre. Wander the stone streets, admiring whitewashed churches, colorful balconies, and small artisan shops. The Mirador San Pedro, identifiable by its colossal 21-meter statue of Saint Peter, offers expansive views of the town and surrounding mountains after a climb up stone staircases. The Central Market (Mercado Central), open daily, is a lively hub for local produce, crafts, and traditional Andean foods. For those seeking a deeper connection with the landscape, consider hiking a segment of the ancient Inca Trail (Qhapaq Ñan), which passes through the canton. Day trips can also be arranged to the Lagunas de Ozogoche, a system of over 30 lagoons.

Alausí experiences consistent temperatures averaging 17°C (63°F) year-round. The dry season, from April to June and October to early December, offers the best conditions for outdoor activities like the Devil's Nose railway and exploring the town, with comfortable temperatures between 13°C and 18°C (55°F to 65°F) and clear views. The dry season from June to September is also ideal for hiking and photography, with crisp, clear skies. Rainfall is significant throughout the year, with May being the wettest month and November the driest. Peak tourist flow occurs in July and August.

Alausí is situated at a high elevation, so it's advisable to take time to acclimate and stay hydrated to prevent altitude sickness. The town center is compact and walkable, making it easy to explore on foot. Local food focuses on hearty Andean staples like roasted pork, corn-based dishes, and fresh cheese, with traditional meals available at small eateries around the central plaza and the Mercado Central. The currency used is the US Dollar.

For transportation, Alausí is well-connected by long-distance buses traveling along the Pan-American Highway from major cities like Quito, Riobamba, or Cuenca. The bus station is located a few blocks from the train station. While generally safe, it's recommended to take care of belongings, avoid showing off valuables, and limit walks to well-lit central areas at night. It is helpful to bring waterproof clothing, sunscreen, sunglasses, and hats.