Ōzu

Ōzu, often called 'Little Kyoto of Iyo,' offers a journey into a preserved segment of old Japan along the Hiji River in Ehime Prefecture. This appealing city invites exploration with its historic castle, traditional merchant houses, and serene riverside landscapes. It’s a place where the pace slows, allowing for contemplation of intricate garden designs and the echoes of samurai life.

The city's character is defined by its blend of natural beauty and architectural heritage. The Hiji River, central to Ōzu's identity, provides a scenic backdrop for the town's most significant landmarks, including the reconstructed Ōzu Castle and the exquisite Garyu Sanso villa. Visitors can wander through streets lined with wooden machiya (townhouses) and redbrick warehouses, experiencing a tangible connection to Japan's past.

## From Feudal Stronghold to Merchant Town Ōzu's history is deeply intertwined with its strategic location along the Hiji River, which made it a vital hub for transportation and trade. The area first gained prominence with the construction of Ōzu Castle in the 14th century, though its current form dates largely from the early Edo period (1603-1868). The castle served as the seat of the Ōzu Domain, ruled by a succession of powerful samurai clans, most notably the Katō family, who governed for over 250 years.

During the Edo period, Ōzu flourished as a castle town and a river port. The Hiji River was a crucial artery for commerce, transporting goods like timber and paper to the Seto Inland Sea. This economic activity led to the development of a prosperous merchant class, whose influence is still visible in the well-preserved merchant houses and traditional architecture found in areas like the Ohanahan Street. The city also became known for its traditional industries, including papermaking and the production of a local sweet called karashi-renkon.

The Meiji Restoration in 1868 brought an end to the feudal system and the Ōzu Domain. The castle was largely dismantled, a common fate for many Japanese castles during this era of modernization. However, efforts in the late 20th and early 21st centuries led to the meticulous reconstruction of the main keep using traditional techniques, allowing visitors to experience its former grandeur. Today, Ōzu continues to honor its past, maintaining its historical streetscapes and cultural practices, offering a window into a significant period of Japanese history.

Begin your exploration at Ōzu Castle, a striking reconstruction that offers panoramic views of the Hiji River and the surrounding town from its main keep. Inside, examine the detailed wooden architecture and historical displays.

Next, immerse yourself in the tranquility of Garyu Sanso, a villa and garden complex considered a masterpiece of Sukiya-zukuri architecture. Wander through its meticulously designed gardens and admire the intricate details of the tea houses overlooking the Hiji River.

Stroll through Ohanahan Street, a preserved district featuring traditional machiya (wooden townhouses) and merchant residences. Many of these buildings now house cafes, shops, or small museums, offering a glimpse into the daily life of historical Ōzu.

Visit the Ōzu Redbrick Warehouse (Akarenga-kan), a Meiji-era building that once served as a silk factory. It now hosts local craft shops and a café, providing a blend of history and contemporary culture.

For a unique cultural experience, particularly in summer, witness the traditional Ukai (cormorant fishing) on the Hiji River, where skilled fishermen use trained cormorants to catch ayu sweetfish.

Spring (March to May) offers pleasant temperatures and the beauty of cherry blossoms, particularly around Ōzu Castle. Autumn (October to November) is also ideal, with comfortable weather and appealing fall foliage along the river and in the gardens. Summer (July to August) is warm and humid, but it's the season for traditional cormorant fishing.

Ōzu is accessible by train. From Matsuyama, take the JR Yosan Line to Iyo-Ōzu Station. The main attractions are within walking distance or a short taxi ride from the station. Consider purchasing an Iyo-Ōzu walking map from the tourist information center. Many historical sites have English information available, but a translation app can be helpful for local interactions. Cash is widely accepted, though some larger establishments may take credit cards.