Malmedy

Malmedy, a city in the Wallonia region of Belgium, stands at the meeting point of the Warche and Warchenne rivers, embraced by the verdant valleys of the Belgian Ardennes. This scenic town, part of the province of Liège, offers a melding of cultural heritage and natural splendor. It serves as a gateway to the Hautes Fagnes-Eifel Nature Park, Belgium's largest nature reserve, which features moorlands, forests, and walking paths.

The city's singular position near the German border has historically shaped its culture, evident in its celebrations and local dialect. Malmedy is particularly known for its lively Cwarmê Carnival, a four-day observance recognized as intangible heritage of the French Community of Belgium. Beyond its celebratory spirit, Malmedy provides opportunities for outdoor pursuits, from walking and cycling in the summer to cross-country skiing in winter.

From Monastic Beginnings to Borderland Identity

Malmedy's origins reach back to 648 AD, when Saint Remacle, a French abbot, established a Benedictine monastery here. For over a millennium, until 1794, Malmedy's narrative was interwoven with the Princely Abbey of Stavelot-Malmedy, a clerical microstate within the Holy Roman Empire governed by a prince-abbot. A rivalry between Malmedy and Stavelot emerged early, as St. Remacle designated Stavelot as the principality's main city.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, Malmedy saw the development of various industries, including cloth, leather, and gunpowder production. The region became a significant tanning center in Europe, but papermaking emerged as Malmedy's chief industry, bringing considerable prosperity. The French Revolution and the Liège Revolution led to the annexation of the Principality of Stavelot-Malmedy by France in 1795, with Malmedy becoming a lower prefecture.

After Napoleon's defeat in 1815, Malmedy, along with Stavelot, was given to Prussia. This marked a period where the town's inhabitants, despite speaking French, found themselves under German governance. Following Germany's defeat in World War I, the Treaty of Versailles allocated Malmedy and the surrounding eastern cantons to Belgium in 1920. This transfer was formalized after a contentious referendum, and Malmedy became part of Liège Province in 1925. However, German nationalist agitation led to its re-annexation by Nazi Germany during World War II.

Malmedy played a grave role in World War II history. In December 1944, during the Battle of the Bulge, the area was the scene of the Malmedy Massacre, where Waffen-SS troops summarily executed 84 unarmed American prisoners of war at the Baugnez crossroads. The town itself, held by US troops, was also subjected to accidental bombings by the United States Air Force in late December 1944, resulting in substantial destruction and civilian casualties. After the war, Malmedy was returned to Belgium in 1945. Today, while French is the predominant language, a small percentage of Malmedy's population still speaks German, and the town provides language facilities for its German-speaking residents.

The core of Malmedy offers an inviting historic center to discover. The Cathedral of Saints Peter, Paul, and Quirinus is an elegant 18th-century Baroque structure, originally an abbey church, that commands the town square. Inside, one finds exquisite woodwork and marble altars. Adjacent to the cathedral is the Malmundarium, a cultural and historical center housed in a former monastery. Here, exhibits delve into local folklore, the history of papermaking, and leatherworking, industries that shaped the town's past. The Malmundarium also features a dedicated Carnaval Studio, exploring the history and figures of the Cwarmê.

For those interested in World War II history, the Baugnez 44 Historical Center and the Malmedy Massacre Memorial are located near the city, commemorating the tragic events of December 1944. Beyond the town, Malmedy serves as a gateway to the Hautes Fagnes-Eifel Nature Park, offering extensive opportunities for walking and cycling through its moorlands and forests. Notable natural attractions include the Bayehon Waterfall and various boardwalk trails through the High Fens. For those seeking excitement, Bikepark Ferme Libert is the largest bike park in the Benelux region, with downhill and four-cross tracks.

Malmedy is a destination that offers something throughout the year. For outdoor activities like walking and cycling, spring and summer (June to September) provide comfortable temperatures, typically ranging from 18°C to 22°C (64°F to 72°F). Autumn paints the surrounding forests with brilliant colors. Winter suits those interested in cross-country skiing in the Hautes Fagnes or experiencing local Christmas markets. The most atmospheric and busiest time to visit is during February for the Cwarmê Carnival, a four-day festival leading up to Shrove Tuesday.

Malmedy is approximately 140 km (87 miles) from Brussels, a drive of about two hours via the E40 and E42 motorways. While there are no direct train services to Malmedy, the nearest major train station is Verviers, from which buses provide a 30-minute connection to Malmedy. Having a car is advantageous for exploring the surrounding nature reserves and villages. The city is French-speaking, though some locals also speak German due to its historical ties. The local currency is the Euro. For local specialties, try 'Boudin de Malmedy,' a traditional sausage, or 'Baisers de Malmedy,' a light meringue that has been a local delicacy since the 19th century. The Malmedy tourist office, situated at Place du Châtelet 9, can provide maps and information on walks and activities.