Retz

Retz, a historic wine town in the Weinviertel region of Lower Austria, offers a captivating blend of medieval character and viticultural heritage. Close to the Czech border, this tranquil destination is known for its extensive underground wine cellars, a singular working windmill, and a picturesque main square. The town's identity is deeply intertwined with winemaking, a tradition that dates back centuries and is celebrated through its numerous taverns, festivals, and the region's signature Grüner Veltliner wine.

Beyond its vinicultural allure, Retz provides a relaxed atmosphere with well-preserved medieval fortifications and impressive Renaissance burgher houses. Visitors can explore a lively mix of culture, wine, and rural serenity, whether strolling through the historic center, cycling through vineyards, or discovering the town's profound depths.

From Medieval Origins to Wine Capital

The earliest mention of a settlement in the Retz area dates back to 1180. The town of Retz itself was established around 1300 by Count Berthold von Rabenswalde, who also founded the Dominican monastery in the late 13th century. The early 15th century proved challenging for Retz, as the Hussites conquered and destroyed the city in 1425, with a second raid occurring in 1431. Chronicles report significant casualties and captives taken to Prague during these conflicts.

Retz began its ascent as a wine capital after being conquered by Matthias Corvinus in 1486. He ruled until 1492 and granted the city crucial privileges related to wine trade. These privileges were instrumental in the construction of Retz's vast, multi-story wine cellar system, which became central to its future prosperity. The 16th century saw significant architectural developments, including the transformation of a former church on the main square into the city's town hall between 1568 and 1569. The striking Sgraffitohaus was built in 1576, with its overpainted artwork rediscovered and uncovered in 1928, and the eye-catching Verderberhaus followed in 1583.

In the early 18th century, the main parish church underwent Baroque renovations and extensions. The town's first wooden windmill was constructed in 1772, later replaced by the stone windmill that stands today, a landmark that was extensively restored and put back into operation in 2010. Retz gained a connection to the Austrian railway network in 1871, further integrating it into the region. Today, Retz is recognized as the first Slow Food Village in Lower Austria, emphasizing craftsmanship and regionality in its culinary offerings.

Begin your exploration at the Hauptplatz, Retz's expansive main square, framed by historic buildings like the Sgraffitohaus and the Verderberhaus, showcasing Renaissance architecture. From the Town Hall Tower, accessible via 128 steps, you can enjoy a wide view of the town, vineyards, and the iconic windmill.

A journey into the Retzer Erlebniskeller (Adventure Cellar) is essential. This 20-kilometer labyrinth of wine cellars, dug deep into sea sand, is one of Central Europe's largest historic wine cellars. Guided tours lasting approximately 90 minutes offer insights into winemaking history and conclude with a wine tasting. Remember to dress warmly as the cellar maintains a constant temperature of 10-12°C (48-54°F).

Just outside the town, the Retz Windmill stands as Austria's only operational windmill, offering tours and flour sales. The surrounding cellar lanes (Kellergassen), once sites for wine production and storage, are ideal for leisurely strolls and offer a glimpse into the region's wine culture. For those interested in local history and art, the Retz Museum houses the South Moravian Gallery, and the Fahrradmuseum (Bicycle Museum) at Schloss Gatterburg provides a unique collection. Expansive viewpoints can also be found at the Altenberg and the Windmill hill.

Retz is a year-round destination, though the best times to visit for warm-weather activities are from mid-June to early September, when temperatures average between 25°F and 77°F (25°C). Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to October) offer pleasant weather with fewer crowds, ideal for exploring the town and vineyards. Wine enthusiasts might prefer the Weinviertel Wine Spring (first weekend after Easter) or Wine Autumn, when many wine taverns are open and harvest festivals take place. The Grape Harvest Festival, held on the last weekend of September, is a notable event celebrating the season.

Retz is easily accessible by public transport from Vienna via S-Bahn, with trains running almost hourly and the journey taking approximately an hour to 1 hour 15 minutes. The railway station is an 8-minute walk from the main square. For those traveling from Vienna Airport, the train journey takes around 2.5 to 3 hours with two changes. The town center and many attractions are walkable, and the region offers an extensive network of cycle paths for exploring the surrounding countryside. Bike rentals are available. The local currency is the Euro. German is the official language, but English audio guides are available for the Retzer Erlebniskeller tour. Warm clothing is recommended for cellar tours due to the constant cool temperatures.